The city’s small wooden homes were built on pilings to keep them from melting the permafrost, which would cause them to sink. It was August, and the ocean looked as black as anthracite. Looking down through a small window I saw a triangular-shaped town hugging the edge of the continent at the junction of the Chukchi and Beaufort seas. The treads leave dark trails in the tundra, the blanket of spongy brown and green vegetation that stretches south for hundreds of miles. Barrow’s residents use cars or four-wheel-drive ATVs in town and have been known to hunt caribou on snowmobiles, even in summer. 4,500), you must fly or, sea ice permitting, take a ship. To reach America’s northernmost city (pop.
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